Little Homestead in the City

I discovered this great blog, today, and wanted to share it. It describes itself as a "Journal of a Self-Sufficient Urban Life." Although they are located on 1/5 acre, not a city apartment, it contains a wealth of information on subsistence living.
http://urbanhomestead.org/journal/

Footprint Family - A story of urban subsistence living: Chapter 4 -- A "Green Buddy"

Franny Footprint came home with two large shopping bags over each arm and a big grin on her face.

"What did you buy?" asked her husband Freddie.

"Absolutely nothing!" said Franny. "Last week, I told my friends at work to save me any household items they would like to recycle. Well, today they came through in a big way! Not only that, but a woman named who started working recently in the office next door to mine, approached me and asked me if I wanted to be her "Green Buddy." I didn't have the foggiest idea what she meant by that, so she explained that the "Green Buddy System" is something started in the town where she used to live. People who are interested in living a sustainable, off-grid, urban lifestyle pair up with one another, to make this easier to do. For example, a person (or family) living in an apartment that faces North would find it nearly impossible to raise plants as a source of food, nor would their landlord be likely to approve their raising Quail indoors. However, if they paired up with a Green Buddy who had a small back yard, the person with the yard could do more of the raising of food and collecting of solar energy, while the person living in the apartment could be in charge of processing recycled materials, for example."

Freddie was impressed. "What a good idea! I wonder if some of the guys at work would want to start this, too. We could even set up a cooperative group, so that the Buddy pairs could periodically meet other pairs and share goods and ideas."

"Let's start small," Franny cautioned. "I don't want to get overwhelmed with administrative tasks and not have time to do what we need to do. Let me show you what I brought home. Rose, who is my new Green Buddy, gave me some long strips of wool and cotton fabrics, so I can start making braided rugs. She also gave me a gadget that clamps the strips to the table while I work with them. Betty brought us a bunch of small solar collectors from broken solar walk-way lights. Her husband is a landscaping contractor and has been collecting them from customers who were otherwise going to throw them away. Christine gave us two sets of brackets for window boxes. I figured that, not only could we grow plants in them, but we could set up a small wind generator on one, and attach some solar collectors on the other."

Freddie was very encouraged and got out his plans for linking together multiple solar collectors. He figured that he could probably figure out a way to charge a computer battery, if he was creative. On his lunch hour at work, he had found an interesting article that answered the question "How many solar cells would I need in order to provide all of the electricity that my house needs?" http://www.howstuffworks.com/question418.htm This article explained that "A single solar cell produces a maximum of 0.45 volts and a varying amount of current depending on the size of the cell and the amount of light striking the surface. In a typical yard light, therefore, you need four cells wired in series.... In this yard light, the four cells will produce 1.8 volts and a maximum of about 100 milliamps in full, bright sunlight." The article also gave a lot of information on how the yard light works and how it is wired inside. He found another article, written for RV-ers, but very useful for what he and Franny were trying to do. It was about joining multiple solar panels: http://ezinearticles.com/?RV-Solar-Panels-How-To-Get-Started&id=470405. He hoped that they would soon be able to find an energy efficient computer and power it with solar battery chargers.

Crocheted bag, made from recycled plastic bags. The flower is made of recycled sweater material. (See below)

(Please see http://thequeenv.typepad.com/the_queen_v/recycled_sweater_projects/jects/ to see this project and more pictures of other recycling projects.)

35+ Uses for Plastic Milk Jugs

35+ Uses for Plastic Milk JugsYou'll love these clever ideas for plastic containers
By Marion Owen, Fearless Weeder for PlanTea, Inc. and Co-author of Chicken Soup for the Gardener's Soul

"Uh, oh. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) says that plastic milk jugs deposited in landfills will never degrade. Yet each year, millions of plastic milk jugs are thrown away. In fact, milk jugs (and water bottles) represent one of the largest volume of plastic that end up in landfills and make up the corner-stone of almost all plastic recycling efforts. Fortunately, many people accept the challenge to re-use household items.
Reusing plastic milk jugs is no exception. Along with the plastic milk jug cloche (below) which protects seedlings and bedding plants, here are 34 more uses for your home, garden, yard, garage and boat." Continued at......... http://www.plantea.com/milk-jug.htm

UPCYCLING: New Term for a Sustainable World

Definition: Upcycling is "The practice of taking something that is disposable and transforming it into something of greater use and value" From the book Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things by William McDonough and Michael Braungart.

Isn't it wonderful how a word can just enter the English language in one fell swoop? Upcycling is that kind of word. Here is what the web site "Word Spy" says about "upcycling":

upcycling n. A process that takes used or recycled materials and creates a new product with a higher quality or value than the original materials.—upcycle v.

---------------------
Example Citations:
Mr. Kalin is big on 'upcycling,' a process whose name was coined by William McDonough, an architect, and Michael Braungart, a chemist, in their 2002 book, 'Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things.' They used the term to describe the process of taking something that's essentially waste and moving it up the consumer-goods chain. 'I love upcycling,' Mr. Kalin said. 'I love this idea of bringing something from lower down and elevating it.'—Penelope Green, "Romancing The Flat Pack: Ikea, Repurposed," The New York Times, September 6, 2007
We also consider "upcycling", which involves taking used materials and increasing their value. For example, by taking an old shirt that someone won't wear just because they've dropped a tiny bit of balsamic vinegar on it, printing over the top of it and perhaps cutting into it to make it fit with current trends. It's very quick and easy. I can upcycle a worn-out ordinary shirt into a designer handprinted B.Earley one. —Lucy Middleton, "Turning the fashion industry green," New Scientist, October 6, 2007

-----------------------------
Earliest Citation:
Current recycling is actually what we call downcycling—reducing the quality of a material over several lifecycles until it is no longer useful. When car steel is recycled into building material steel, for example, it is melted down with other materials, such as copper. This copper content destroys the steel's stability. As a result, new steel must be added to make the metal strong enough for its next use. These things are not designed to be recycled. They're forced into primitive recycling processes after they've been used. Their original quality is lost.
If today's recycling is downcycling, then what's upcycling?
Korean rice husks used as packing for stereo components are now being reused as building insulation. Shipping is free because it travels with the stereo, the insulation is non-toxic, and we eliminate the concept of waste. After use as insulation, the rice husks can be used again as bricks. We've also developed a pulp from newspapers to be recyclined into building insulation. We use the intelligence that already exists in those materials.—Michael Cannell, "Upcycling the World," Architecture, September 1, 2000

-------------------------
Notes:
The New York Times citation claims that upcycling was coined in 2002, but the earliest citation shows that the term goes back to at least 2000, and it may be even earlier. Here's a citation that may qualify as the earliest, if I could figure out what all the jargon means:
PIRA International is launching a multi-client project investigating the potential of residential mixed paper (RMP) as a fibre source for paper and board. RMP is already used in recycled board in North America. Although the main RMP users will be recycled board makers, potential may exist for deinkable fractions to be used in other grades. The study will be carried out in conjunction with Moore & Associates of the US which has assessed the potential market benefits of including RMP in US recycling programs. Information on yield, contaminants and fibre quality are necessary technical research areas which will be examined in the project through: assessing the potential tonnage available; establishing fibre quality existing within designated types of RMP and assessing variability levels; examining the economics and technical feasibility of proposed upcycling process techniques.—"Using RMP as a fibre source," Pulp & Paper Canada, November 1, 1996

---------------------------
Related Words:cleantechconspicuous conservationeco-techecyclinggrasscyclingnewaterprecycling
Subject Category:Science - Environment
Posted on October 11, 2007

[From http://www.wordspy.com/words/upcycling.asp]

More about Quail

I'm smitten! These little guys are so cute. Here are just some of the great pictures from someone who has been raising quail since she was 14 years old: http://southfarthingstudio.com/id17.html

Quail Eggs are Good to Eat

Although I don't personally like the idea of eating birds that I have raised myself, I do like eggs, so I like the idea of raising birds that are small enough to live indoors and lay eggs. Quail droppings also make excellent fertilizer. Here is a very good article about raising quail: http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/easterly101.html

This picture is from another informative web site:

http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/NDG/Quail/JapQ/BRKJapQ.html

Another very good article linked to in the on the above site: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/Stuff/FeatherFancier/FeathFancQuail.html

The Footprint Family - A story of urban subsistence living. Chapter 3: The Footprints Move In

Franny and Freddie Footprint surveyed their new apartment and were happy with what they were starting with. They had found one with two South-facing windows and a great view of a nearby park. It was furnished, but Franny had a few ideas about ways to make it feel more like home. Yesterday, they had gone to the local thrift shop and found several changes of clothes for a little over $30, leaving them almost $20 to buy underwear and socks, on sale, from a local department store. They had located a shower head water heater on eBay for $60, but had to pay $15 shipping, so they were a little over budget on that item. They found the Sterno stove and one pack of the gel on sale at the hardware store, so they were able to get both for only $12.95. The hardware store also had a solar LED light on sale for $11.99. They spent a little more on seeds than they had intended, but by the time they got all the other items on their list, they still had enough money left over to buy a table-top oil lamp and an inexpensive kit for growing sprouts.

They had great plans for next pay-day, to get a couple of solar battery chargers (http://store.sundancesolar.com/siflsochfora.html) and a more practical stove and oven set-up. They also wanted to get a phone and to start saving for a computer.

On a blog called "Judy of the Woods," Franny had found instructions for making an oil lamp, using vegetable oil, so she wanted to make a few of those next week:

http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/01/homemade_oil_lamp_from_ju.html

http://www.judyofthewoods.net/lamp.html

------------------------------

Franny and Freddie relaxed after a light dinner of some sandwiches that their friends Allan and Debbie had made for them, knowing that they wouldn't have their kitchen set up yet. Franny was laying out the seeds they had bought, while some good, dark soil they had dug up from an abandoned lot, "cooked" on the Sterno stove, to kill the weed seeds and any fungal spores that might damage new seedlings. Debbie had been concerned that there might be toxic fumes from the Sterno, but Freddie had done some research during his lunch break at work today, and found out that, not only Sterno was made of ingredients that were relatively non-toxic in this setting, but they could actually make it themselves, using only chalk (or egg shells), vinegar, and alcohol. He printed out an easy-to-follow explanation from an organization called Midwest Native Skills Institute, Inc. This is fascinating organization that teaches skills in survival and self-reliance (http://www.survivalschool.com/)

Here are their instructions on making Sterno:(http://www.survivalschool.com/articles/Fire_Making/How_to_Make_Sterno.htm)
"How to Make "Sterno™"
A solid camping fuel like Sterno™ or Magic Heat™ was discovered several years ago when a group of campers forgot to pack fuel for their camp stove. Because the area prohibited use of campfires, the campers needed to use an alternative fuel source. One of the campers made a gel that they could use as a solid fuel. To make this gel, chalk was crushed and mixed with vinegar. The resulting mixture was filtered through a napkin and the liquid collected was heated using a solar reflector. Some rubbing alcohol was poured into the solution to form a gel which burned. You can repeat this process and make their own gelled fuel at home with alcohol and calcium acetate (C4H6CaO4). Either methanol or ethanol can be used for fuel. Calcium acetate (C4H6CaO4) can be purchased or made by slowly dissolving calcium carbonate (eggshells or chalk) in vinegar, filtering, and allowing to dry

Here's how to do it…

Step 1: Place about 1 oz. of chalk (or egg shells) in a mortar and pestle and grind to small pieces. Transfer chalk to pint container and add 4 oz of vinegar. Stir for 5 minutes.

What’s Happening: A reaction between chalk (calcium carbonate) and vinegar (acetic acid, dilute) to produces carbon dioxide, water and calcium acetate

Step 2: Pour the chalk-vinegar mixture into the funnel lined with a coffee filter and collect the liquid in a pint container.

What’s Happening: Filtration of unreacted chalk from the mixture to leave a solution of calcium acetate in water.

Step 3: Pour 2 oz of the liquid into the dish. Gently heat the dish with a Bunsen burner until the volume is reduced by half. Turn off burner and allow concentrated solution to cool.

What’s Happening: Removal of excess water will concentrate the calcium acetate in the solution.

Step 4: Add 1 oz. of alcohol to liquid in dish. DO NOT STIR! The gel should form rapidly. Pour off any excess alcohol.

What’s Happening: Mixing alcohol with calcium acetate will form the gel fuel"

© 2007 MNSI - All rights reserved.

---------------------------------------------------
Freddie had also set aside papers with information on items that he thought they should budget for, but were not urgent things they should get right away. One product that really appealed to him, since he hoped that he would soon have a bicycle to use to get to work, was the "The Cycle Charger," a unique gadget that permits charging of small electronics, like a cell phone, that can plug into a car's cigarette lighter socket. The bicycle charger was available at http://www.econvergence.net/cyclech.htm, for $89.95, but he was hoping to find something similar, but for less money, if he looked hard enough. --------------------------------------
On the same web site as the solar battery charger, Freddie had found something called a "Solar Shower." (http://store.sundancesolar.com/sosh5ga.html) It was basically a way of heating a 5 gallons bag of water. Since they already had a point-of-use shower head heater, they did not need the solar shower for its bathing function, but Freddie thought that it would be very convenient to have in the kitchen for washing dishes. It was only $15, making it quite affordable.

---------------------------------------------------------
Challenges for Chapter 3:
Is there a less-expensive bicycle generator

that Freddie could buy?

What's the most eco-friendly phone they could buy?

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The Footprint Family - A story of urban subsistence living. Chapter 2: The Footprints Lay Out a Start-Up Plan

Freddie and Franny Footprint were sitting with their friends Allan and Debbie, that first night, discussing what they would need to buy in the next few weeks.

"Well," said Freddie. "Thanks to Allan's and Debbie's generosity, we don't have to worry about eating and bathing for the next week. Let's make a list of the things that are absolutely essential to get us started."

"O.K.," said Franny. "First, we each need a change of clothes that are easily hand-washed. We also need a way to cook that does not require plug-in electricity."

Debbie then told them about an interesting web site she had come across when they were setting up a household emergency kit:
http://www.nationalterroralert.com/heatlightcooking/. The site gave some excellent information on cooking without electricity. The most convenient system for indoor cooking on a small scale was Sterno. "Sterno Fuel, a jellied petroleum product, is an excellent source of fuel for inclusion in your back pack as part of your 72 hour kit. Sterno is very light weight and easily ignited with a match or a spark from flint and steel but is not explosive. It is also safe for use indoors.... A Sterno Stove can be purchased at any sporting goods store and will retail between $3 and $8, depending upon the model you choose. They fold up into a very small, compact unit ideal for carrying in a pack. The fuel is readily available at all sporting goods stores and many drug stores. One can of Sterno fuel, about the diameter of a can of tuna fish and twice as high, will allow you to cook six meals if used frugally.Chafing dishes and fondue pots can also be used with Sterno." One type of folding stove, usable with Sterno fuel, can be seen at the following web site: http://www.nextag.com/Safesport-Coghlans-Metal-Folding-564879327/prices-html. You can even make your own Sterno Stove, as described on the Instructables web site: http://www.instructables.com/id/Tin-Can-Sterno-Stove/ve/. It is possible to get two 8 oz Sterno gel cans for approximately $8 (see http://www.winterfix.com/itemlist.asp?Bc=sterno)

A slightly more expensive stove, but one that is still quite reasonable, is the Brunton Raptor Foldable Butane Canister Stove, retailing for approximately $40. (see http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Product___86634?&&CS_003=2450921&CS_010=86634 ). Unlike portable propane stoves, butane stoves are safe to use indoors.

"On the subject of heating things," said Freddie, "don't forget that we will need hot water. I suggest we try to find one of those point-of-use, tankless hot water heaters. I have done a little research on what is available. We can buy a shower-head type for $70-80. (see:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Electric-110v-Tankless-Water-Heater-RV-Camper-Shower_W0QQitemZ140210492623QQihZ004QQcategoryZ115967QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262



A slightly more elaborate shower water heater can be purchased for about $130. (see: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110264013955&ssPageName=MERCOSI_VI_ROSI_PR4_PCN_BIX_Stores&refitem=110262189170&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&refwidgettype=osi_widget&_trksid=p284.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%252BIA%26itu%3DIA%252BUCI%26otn%3D4%26ps%3D42)

Allan pointed out that there are some other small-scale water heaters for slightly more. They were under $200, but probably more than Freddie and Franny would be able to spend this month. He gave them some web site references for these:

(1) ELECTRIC POINT-OF-USE TANKLESS WATER HEATER $165.29POWERSTREAM PRO INSTANT RP1P 240-208 VOLT 9500-7100 WAT http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190133847170&ssPageName=MERCOSI_VI_ROSI_PR4_PCN_BIX_Stores&refitem=120273617060&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&refwidgettype=osi_widget&_trksid=p284.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%252BIA%26itu%3DIA%252BUCI%26otn%3D4%26ps%3D42


(2) New Stiebel Point of Use Electric Tankless Water Heater $144
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Stiebel-Point-of-Use-Electric-Tankless-Water-Heater_W0QQitemZ360062050210QQihZ023QQcategoryZ115967QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

Allan also showed them a good review article on TreeHugger.com, about the Ariston point-of-use hot water heaters, for $139-169. http://www.treehugger.com/files/2005/05/pointofuse_hot.php.

In addition, he had found a tankless water heater resource guide: http://www.tanklesshq.com/product-specs.html

"All right," said Franny. We still need to make plans to eat. While it would be nice to buy some packaged potting soil, we can easily heat plain dirt from outdoors, in order to kill the weed seeds and harmful organisms. All we need for pots is some discarded plastic jugs with holes in the bottom. Then, the only thing we have to buy is seeds."

"We can't grow everything at the beginning," said Freddie. "I propose that we buy some inexpensive cans of cooked beans, since we won't have the set-up, yet, for cooking dried beans. We will need some source of grain, so that we are getting complete proteins. How about buying some buckwheat groats (Kasha) and some cous-cous. Both of those cook pretty fast. Once we have an oven, we can start making our own bread."

After a little more discussion, they came up with the following budget:

1) Clothing--An inexpensive change of clothes from K-Mart or WalMart. They were pretty sure that they could get what they needed for about $50.
2) A tankless shower head water heater for about $70.
3) A Sterno folding stove and two 2-packs of 8 oz Sterno gel for about $25.
4) Seeds: assorted salad greens, grape tomatoes, and carrots--$5.
5) Soap and other items for personal hygeine--$15.
6) Canned beans, a pound of buckwheat groats, a pound of cous-cous, some salt, and a small bottle of vegetable oil--$15.
7) The "Lightship" -- portable solar LED light--$13. (http://www.sollight.com/products/lightship.cfm)

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Challenge for Chapter 2:

What do Freddie and Franny need to set up next?

How will they handle their trash and food garbage?

(Let's assume that they have only about $100 left after

paying the rent and security deposit on their new apartment.)

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Venting a Little--Everything is so expensive!

As I have done research for ways for a family without much money to find inexpensive ways to "live green" in the city, I have become increasingly frustrated. There are plenty of articles, television programs, and web sites with great ideas about recycling and alternative energy sources and stuff, but they are, almost without fail, geared toward toward the upper-middle-class, two-income couple who wants to "feel good" about helping the environment. What about the people who do NOT have much money and want to recycle and use alternative energy just to help make ends meet? Those are the people I want to help. There has to be a way to live a "green" lifestyle on a low income!

New Cable Channel, called "Planet Green"

Today, I discovered a new cable channel that gives all sorts of interesting tips and other information on "living green." The channel went on-air on June 4th. Here is what they have to say for themselves:

About Planet Green
Planet Green is the first and only 24-hour eco-lifestyle television network with a robust online presence and community. Launching in June 2008, on-air content will reach 50 million homes with more than 250 hours of original green lifestyle programming. Both online and on-air, Plant Green's content is entertaining, relevant, and accessible to people of all ages and backgrounds. By representing a broad range of ideas and perspectives, Planet Green is taking an active role in generating conversation and motivating individuals to take action when it comes to improving the environmental status of our planet.

That mission extends online here at PlanetGreen.com and on our sister site, TreeHugger.com. PlanetGreen.com is filled with solutions-oriented tips and information that can help you make your life a little (or a lot) greener. Our eco-minded community includes fan sites, articles about how to go green, and forums where users can interact. With expert advice and info from our on-air personalities such as Sara Snow, Annabelle Gurwitch, Emeril Lagasse, and Steve Thomas, plus our team of eco-savvy writers, Planet Green is your user's guide to living mindfully on this big blue marble we all call home. Our experts will help you navigate the options for detoxifying your home, life, and planet - without the jargon or the guilt trips - so you can start being the change you wish to see in the world. Passionate, positive, and always practical, Planet Green is bursting with smart tips and inspiring advice.

For the latest in green news, opinions, interviews, and trends, visit TreeHugger.com, the leading eco-lifestyle outlet dedicated to driving sustainability mainstream with more than 1.7 million unique visitors a month.

Solar LED Lighting

Here is an excellent segment about LED lights, in general, and solar powered LED lights, in specific, from... http://www.sollight.com/products/solar-led-lights.cfm

WHAT IS AN LED?

An LED, or Light Emitting Diode, contains a chemical compound that gives off light when an electric current passes through it. They’ve been around for many years, but only recently has the technology advanced so that rather than just an ‘indicator’ light on your stereo amplifier or phone, they can be made bright enough to actually use as an independent light source.

LEDs put out a tremendous amount of light for their size and energy draw. They create almost no heat and use very little electricity. White LEDs were only developed in the past few years; before that they were only available in red, green, yellow and a few other colors. Best of all, an LED will last thousands of hours; some have been tested to over 50,000 hours (vs. a standard flashlight bulb that will only last a few hundred hours). On a more technical basis, the centerpiece of a typical LED is a diode that is chip-mounted in a reflector cup and held in place by a mild steel lead frame connected to a pair of electrical wires. The entire arrangement is then encapsulated in epoxy. The diode chip is generally about 0.25 mm square. When current flows across the junction of two different materials, light is produced from within the solid crystal chip. The composition of the materials determines the wavelength and color of light. The shape, or width, of the emitted light beam is determined by a variety of factors: the shape of the reflector cup, the size of the LED chip, the shape of the epoxy lens and the distance between the LED chip and the epoxy lens. We designed our LED for a fairly wide dispersion of light (rather than very focused). For this reason, if you look directly into our LEDs they might not appear as bright as ones that have a very narrowly focused beam (better for headlamps and flashlights). If you look from the side, however, you will find they display much more light than a focused beam, and are thus better for a lantern application where you want light in a wider area.

HOW MUCH POWER DO LED LIGHTS DRAW?

Different colored LEDs use different amounts of electricity. In general, an LED uses about 1/10th the power of an incandescent bulb and they are up to 90% more efficient than both fluorescent or neon bulbs of similar wattage. If you wired your house to use LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs you could run the lights day and night for a year with just a 12 volt car battery. Therein lies the beauty of our system: finally we have LEDs bright enough for task lighting that can be powered by a very small, easily recharged power supply.

Most LEDs draw between 20-30mA of current. A typical rechargeable AA battery will supply between 500-1,500mA, meaning 15-50 hours of light. Allowing for varying voltage regulating circuits, the actual burn times are about 20% less. The voltage required to power an LED depends on which end of the light spectrum it’s color lies: red LEDs take the least (about 2 volts) while blue take the most (up to 4 volts). When the available voltage drops below the minimum required by more than 10% the LED will not work. This is one of the more curious electrical anomalies of LEDs: Ohm’s law—one of the most basic laws of electricity—does not work.

WHAT ABOUT THE BATTERIES?

Our products use a rechargeable NiCad battery pack because for overall performance they provide the best solution for storable power. NiCads have an observable memory effect (meaning they will tend to only charge a certain amount based on what they are used to). However, this has only been observed in situations where the battery has been discharged to the EXACT same level for numerous cycles (more than 50 cycles). NASA experienced memory effect in its early satellites that orbiting the earth for several months, when they tried to charge the batteries to a greater charge (fuller), the batteries where not able to take this charge. The solution was to drain the batteries below the level that they had been repeatedly drained to, then they where able to receive a greater charge. It is unlikely that the batteries will receive either the exact same charge or discharge for more than 50 cycles, so the memory effect should not be a problem. Regardless, it is a good idea to charge your LightCap FULLY before you first use it, and to keep it charged as much as possible when not in use.

NiCad batteries lose (discharge) 1-2% per day while inactive. This also depends on the level of charge (faster when full), and temperature (faster when hot)). So even if the batteries are fully charged, they will essentially be dead in 90 days. We recommend that you keep your LightCap fully charged whenever possible, and that you give it a good direct sunlight charge at least once a month if you keep it stored.

Finally, while there are several other types of battery/charging systems available, NiCad batteries have the best shelf life of the declarable battery family. NiMh batteries, often used in items that will receive a daily recharge (cell phones, laptop computers, VHF radios, etc.), discharge at a rate of 3-4% a day.

WHAT KIND OF SOLAR PANELS DO WE USE?

There are two basic types of solar panels (also referred to as a PV - photo voltaic cell): mono-crystalline and poly-crystalline. Each has it's own output characteristics. Our Siemens solar panel is made from Polycrystalline silicone. It yields a slightly higher charging output than a mono-crystalline in direct sunlight, slightly less in overcast conditions.

Our solar panel is rated at 90mA (milli-amperes), meaning it will put out 90 mA of power each hour in high intensity light or direct sunshine. In overcast conditions, and even when the PV is not oriented directly at the light source, the output is greatly reduced. They may go as low as 6mA on an overcast day, in the shade or indirect sun. Why is this important? Our NiCad batteries each hold 800mA of power; we use two of these, for a total capacity of 1,600mA. Thus, if the PV is putting out an average or 50mA per hour, it will take approximately 32 hours to fully charge the batteries. This, in turn, should power the WHITE LED for up to 20 hours, and the RED LED (which draws less energy) for up to 30 hours. As the batteries discharge, the output voltage will also decline slightly, along with the brightness of the light. For this reason it's always good to keep the batteries charged, and to keep the PV exposed to light whenever possible (to top off the batteries). Even a few hours in a well lit room can add a half-hour of burn time to our solar LED lights.

Here is a low-cost light made by the above company:

"Lightship" -- portable, stick-anywhere light ($12.75)http://www.sollight.com/products/lightship.cfm

For more information on solar LED lighting and products, try these sites:

(1) Excellent discussion on how solar power actually works.http://www.solarilluminations.com/how.html

(2) Solar lighting products:http://www.solarilluminations.com/

(3) RB02 Rechargeable AA Ni-Cad Battery (1.2 v) (For Solar Lights) $1.99http://www.solarilluminations.com/acatalog/solar_light_battery_rechargeable_AA_batteries.html

(4) Solar Panel Battery Charger / Trickle Charger $44.99 http://solarilluminations.com/acatalog/Solar_Battery_Charger_Panel_RV_Boat_Car_Truck.html

(5) HYmini Portable Power Generator

Base unit wind turbine = $49.99

Solar panel = $24.99

Bike holder kit = $8.99

Armband kit = $14.99---"What we've got now is a simple battery pack that can absorb and store 1200mAh of electricity, rechargeable by wind or solar power. The wind mini-generator is the core of the system, housing the battery and the simple windmill. Strap it to your handlebars or your own body via the optional attachments. Supplement your power-generating ability by adding a solar-panel. You can even attach up to four panels and daisy-chain them together for additional oomph! Green-power is great, but sometimes you need to juice-up when you're in the dark on a windless day. Don't worry - we've got you covered there, too! Plug the mini-generator into the wall using the supplied power plug, and charge off the wall. Easy!" http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/travelpower/a2eb/?cpg=froogle

The Footprint Family - A story of urban subsistence living. Chapter 1: The Footprints Begin Again

Freddie and Franny Footprint stood in front of the smoldering remains of their apartment, too numb to make any plans about what to do next. Everything they owned had just gone up in flames. Neither had any relatives left and their close friends were all on the west coast. They had $200 in the bank and an invitation to spend a week at the house of a recent acquaintance from Freddie's new job. Fortunately, with the two of them working, there should be enough money coming in to get them back on their feet if they were frugal, but it would certainly be a challenge. They took the small amount of cash they had with them, went to a neighborhood food market for sandwiches, and decided to spend the rest of the afternoon brainstorming about their options.

Freddie began: "You know how we've been talking about sustainable living in an urban environment, but never got around to doing anything about it? I think that our new circumstances have given us just the incentive we need."

Franny brightened at the prospect. "You are absolutely right. I'll bet we can take our $200 and set up a sustainable household. The pay period for my job ends tomorrow and yours ends on Friday. If we put our two paychecks together next week, we should be able to rent a small apartment with at least one sunny window and get started right away."

"Let's head over to Allan and Debbie's and start making a list of what we will need. If we do this right, we won't have to use any of our pay check money. It's about time we used our earnings for investing in the future. One of the first things I think we should do is to set up an emergency fund, so we will never get stuck like this again!"

-------------------------------------------------
Challenge for Chapter 1: What items do Freddie and Franny need to get their sustainable household started? Don't forget--They have only $200 to spend.
-------------------------------------------------

Micro-Windmills to power cell phones???

Did you ever wonder whether a hand-held windmill could be used for powering pocket-sized electronics, like cell phones? Well, a graduate student in India has done just that. Click on the link below the picture to read about how this little generator works.

http://gizmodo.com/gadgets/gadgets/grad-student-creates-micro-windmill-155875.php

Composting Meat???--A Discussion of Composting

For fairly obvious reasons, composting in an urban setting is a challenge, primarily because of odors. If you are fortunate enough to have a back yard, it is not as difficult, especially if you use worms or one of those specialized rapid-composting bins. However, for the apartment dweller, it is hard to move the compost pile far enough away from sensitive noses to be acceptable. So.... I started doing a little research on various options for urban composting.

COMPOSTING BASICS:

Composting itself is a process whereby microorganisms break down organic materials such as kitchen waste and grass clippings into a rich, earth-like substance called compost or humus. Essentially, any type of plant-material can be composted. There are very few types of non-plant material that are appropriate for composting, and we will discuss these a little later.

The following is information from the Cooperative Extension of the University of California:

A compost is made up of one or more organic materials that have been piled, with or without added soil, and allowed to decompose until the product breaks up readily, can be easily worked into the soil, or can be used as a potting mixture. Organic residues most utilized include leaves, lawn clippings, garden wastes, and animal manures. Because tree trimmings and woody plant stems decay slowly, they should first be chopped or chipped and then composted separately or mixed with other residues. Corn stalks and similar residues should also be chopped before piling. Some detrimental microbes and weed seeds may survive the composting process, so discard diseased plant materials and weeds that have gone to seed....
The process of decay The piled organic materials decompose primarily through the action of bacteria, fungi, and other soil organisms. Crop waste, soil, and dust contain the needed forms which establish themselves quickly under proper conditions for composting. These organisms function more effectively at favorable temperatures, with proper air and moisture, and in the presence of adequate supplies of nutrient elements, especially nitrogen. During decay, excess carbon evolves as carbon dioxide, and nitrogen and other plant nutrient elements become concentrated. The plant materials graduallyturn dark brown to almost black and lose their original structure. Microbial inoculations and other "special preparations" are not necessary for a good product....

(University of California Vegetable Research and Information. Cooperative Extension, University of California.8m-6/79-VL/SL REPRINTED JUNE 1979 LEAFLET 2559)

PDF Format: vric.ucdavis.edu/veginfo/topics/compost/compostprep.pdf

Here are three other sites that have good, simple information on composting basics:

1) http://www.dep.state.pa.us/dep/deputate/airwaste/wm/recycle/compost/Home3.htm

2) http://www.montgomerycountymd.gov/deptmpl.asp?url=/content/dep/composting/basics.asp

3) http://www.compostinfo.com/tutorial/GreensAndBrowns.htm

The third reference (above) discusses "green" and "brown" compost ingredients. Proper proportions of these ingredients are essential in making compost.

Greens and Browns
Backyard Composting is primarily a biological process so you must feed your microorganisms to keep them happy. Microbes need both carbon (C) and nitrogen (N), food sources to function. All materials contain both C and N. The ratio of carbon to nitrogen within a material is called the carbon to nitrogen ratio (C:N). Materials with favorable proportions of carbon and nitrogen (C:N) offer the decomposer microorganisms a "complete meal".

"Greens" - Nitrogen Sources - Materials that are a good source of nitrogen are called "Greens" and are characterized as having a low C:N ratio (C:N ratio less than 30:1) and are generally high in moisure and fast to decompose. Examples of "greens" include manure, inorganic fertilizer, vegetable kitchen scraps, green leaves, and grass clippings. Not all "greens" are green in color. For example, coffee grounds are a nitrogen source.
"Browns" - Carbon Source - Materials that are high in carbon relative to nitrogen (i.e., C:N greater than 30:1), are called "Browns", and are generally dry and slow to decompose. They are generally brownish or darker in color. Examples of "browns" include: straw, leaves, chipped branches and tree trimmings, paper, and sawdust. Browns decompose at low temperatures unless combined with a source of nitrogen. Finding a mix of greens and browns that is in balance can be important. The optimum C:N ratio for rapid composting is about 30:1.

(From: http://www.compostinfo.com/tutorial/GreensAndBrowns.htm)

RAPID COMPOSTING:

(from a U.C. Davis publication cited at the end of this section)

Recently, a new method has been developed which corrects some of the problems associated
with the old type of composting. With this process, compost can be made in 2 to 3 weeks....

1. Material will compost best if it is between 1/2 to 1-1/2 inches in size. Soft, succulent tissues need not be chopped in very small pieces because they decompose rapidly. The harder or the more woody the tissues, the smaller they need to be divided to decompose rapidly....

2. For the composting process to work most effectively, material to be composted should have a carbon to nitrogen ratio of 30 to 1. This cannot be measured easily, but experience has shown that mixing equal volumes of green plant material with equal volumes of naturally dry plant material will give approximately a 30/1 carbon to nitrogen (C/N) ratio. Green material can be grass clippings, old flowers, green prunings, weeds, fresh garbage and fruit and vegetable wastes. Dried material can be dead, fallen leaves, dried grass, straw and somewhat woody materials from prunings....

3. Composting works best if the moisture content of materials in the pile is about 50 percent...

4. Heat, which is very important in rapid composting, is supplied by the respiration of the microorganisms as they break down the organic materials. To prevent heat loss and to build up the amount of heat necessary, a minimum volume of material is essential: a pile at least 36" x 36" x 36" is recommended. If less than 32", the rapid process will not occur. Heat retention is better in bins than in open piles, so rapid composting is more effective if bins are used....

5. The compost pile needs to be turned to prevent the pile from getting too hot. if it gets much above 160 o F, the microorganisms will be killed, the pile will cool, and the whole process will have to start from the beginning. By turning the pile it will not overheat, and it will be aerated also, both of which are necessary to keep the most active decomposers functioning. The pile should be turned so that material which is on the outside is moved to the center.... Bins with covers retain the heat better than do those having no covers.... If the material in the pile is turned every day, it will take 2 weeks or a Iittle longer to compost. If turned every other day, it will take about 3 weeks. The longer the interval between turning the longer it will take for the composting to finish....

6. Once a pile is started, do not add anything (with perhaps one exception, which will be mentioned in 9). The reason is that it takes a certain length of time for the material to break down and anything added has to start at the beginning, thus lengthening the decomposition time for the whole pile. Excess material should be as dry as possible during storage until a new pile is started. Moist stored materials will start to decompose and if this occurs, they will not do a good job in the compost pile.

7. Nothing needs to be added to the organic materials to make them decompose. The microorganisms active in the decomposition process are ubiquitous where plant materials are found and will develop rapidly in any compost piles.

8. If done correctly, a pile will heat to high temperatures within 24 to 48 hours. If it doesn't, the pile is too wet or too dry or there is not enough green material (or nitrogen) present. If too wet, the material should be spread out to dry. If too dry, add moisture. If neither of these, then the nitrogen is low (a high C/N ratio) and this can be corrected by adding materials high in nitrogen (such as ammonium sulfate, grass clippings, fresh chicken manure or urine diluted 1 to 5).

9. If the C/N ratio is less than 30/1, the organic matter will decompose very rapidly but there will be a loss of nitrogen. This will be given off as ammonia.... This can be counteracted by the addition of some sawdust.... Sawdust is very high in carbon and low in nitrogen (a high C/N ratio) and therefor will counteract the excess nitrogen. Other than adding water should the pile become dry, this is the only thing which should be added to a pile once it's started....

10. Materials which should not be added to a composting pile include soil, ashes from a stove or fireplace, and manure from carnivorous (meat-eating) animals....Manure from carnivorous animals such as dogs, cats, ... etc., could contain disease-producing organisms that might infect humans. It is not known whether or not the rapid composting process will kill these organisms and therefore such manures should not be used - manure from herbivorous animals such as rabbits, goats, cattle, horses, elephants or fowl can be used....

Cooperative Extension, University of California,Division of Agriculture and Natural Resouces - Leaflet 21251,
PDF format: vric.ucdavis.edu/veginfo/topics/compost/rapidcompost.pdf
OR: http://209.85.215.104/search?q=cache:yBR5-5BEZF4J:vric.ucdavis.edu/veginfo/topics/compost/rapidcompost.pdf+%22rapid+compost%22&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=3&gl=us

COMPOSTING NON-MEAT KITCHEN SCRAPS:

The biggest difference between kitchen scraps (non-meat) and other plant-based compost materials is the size and toughness of the scraps. A 2002 article from http://compost-bin.com/ discusses simple ways of composting kitchen scraps:

Unlike most yard materials, which are generally, dry, thin, dead or dying, and high in carbon, that is not always the case with kitchen scraps. However, I compost nearly all of my kitchen scraps, including, yes, meat scraps. Food scraps, like some yard materials, just need to be properly prepared, and then added in a reasonable proportion to a properly maintained pile.... [To compost peels like banana and grapefruit (without attached fruit), make sure that the peels are placed] skinside down, and that the peels are evenly distributed. This promotes rapid drying, which is the first step in decomposition. Also note that the pile has been made with a recessed center section. If you do not want people to see what is in your pile, is is easy to cover the food scraps with aged compost. Composting food scraps in this way is very low risk, meaning that there will be minimal if any odor, and it will quickly diminish, especially if the peels are exposed to sunshine.... [In] a slightly more extreme example of food composting, [where] there is actually food and not just peels..., then it would be a good idea to cover food like this with a layer of finished or at least partially finished compost. You could also chop the slices into bits and distribute them evenly on the pile, but this takes more of your time.... [If] large chunks [of foods like pumpkin] have to be dealt with [, note] that they are place skin-side down in the pile. This will encourage moisture to collect in the concave surfaces. Next, it is important that the chunks are placed well towards the interior of the pile, and covered with a layer of aged material. You would not expect something like this to be processed quickly, so be ready to let something like this sit for a couple months before turning the pile.(http://www.compost-bin.com/food.shtml)

COMPOSTING MEAT:

The author of the above Compost-Bin article (http://www.compost-bin.com/food.shtml) has some tips on how to compost meat, which most compost experts advise against:

My first experimentation with this was to throw a raw turkey neck into the middle of a dry leaf pile, just to see what happened. After a day, that pile stunk to high heaven! Big mistake! But I did learn the hard way why most compost resources advise against composting meat.Since then, I have learned to cook the turkey neck and make soup from it, and then, when most of the meat has been stripped, it can be buried deep within a pile in a pocket of aged material. Now I compost chicken bones, T-bones, pork chop bones, etc. with absolutely no problems at all. As long as the meat has been cooked and the bones are free of most meat and fat, when turning time comes I find bones that have been absolutely picked clean. I think this is better than sealing that stuff in plastic and storing it until trash day. My exception is slabs of fat and sometimes poultry skins, though like a thin slice of beef, if a piece of skin is carefully spread out in the center of a pile and covered with aged material then it will be consumed quickly.

COMPOSTING MANURE AND OTHER ANIMAL WASTE:

Although the following article is primarily intended for livestock producers, there is a lot of information that can be extrapolated to small-scale operations, like a single household.

Because of differences in manure characteristics and handling systems for different livestock species, the composting process for each livestock species ... [are] analyzed separately.... Manure from sheep, goats, horses, ducks and others also can be composted by considering their manure characteristics and important factors ...for proper composting. Other organic residues that can be composted include yard wastes, grass clippings, peat moss, sea weeds, fruit and vegetable wastes, food processing wastes, municipal garbage, sewage sludge, etc. When composting any of these materials, consider factors such as air, water content, particle size, C:N ratio, pH and temperature....

http://www.ianrpubs.unl.edu/epublic/pages/publicationD.jsp?publicationId=567

WHAT ABOUT BAD BACTERIA?

Pathogenic (disease causing) bacteria in compost can be a serious health concern. Here are some excerpts from an article addressing this concern. It was published by the California Integrated Waste Management Board:

Composting is an effective means for reducing pathogen concentrations in a variety of organic materials, including manure, yard trimmings, and biosolids (sewage sludge). These materials, when “raw” or not composted, contain pathogens that may infect humans when they are first generated. The pathogens of interest include bacteria, protozoa, viruses, fungi, and helminths (parasitic worms). During the composting process, beneficial microbial populations build up while pathogen concentrations are considerably reduced....

The Composting Process
During composting, beneficial bacteria and fungi use organic feedstock as a source of energy. They grow and reproduce quickly, releasing an enormous amount of heat that warms the compost pile. Under thermophilic (hot) conditions of 135–165°F, biochemical processes accelerate and beneficial microbes quickly deplete the compost of needed oxygen.
For this reason, air must be supplied to an active compost pile by either forcing it in or by periodic turning to maintain air spaces sufficiently large to allow passive ventilation. Operations relying on forced ventilation are called “in-vessel systems” if they are enclosed within a structure and “static pile systems” if they are exposed to the environment.
The majority of compost operations rely on turning to maintain aeration. Because of their long pile shape, these are referred to as “turned windrow systems.” Sustained thermophilic conditions are sufficient to kill most potential human pathogens (as well as most plant pathogens and weed seeds).... Eventually, the compost microbes exhaust the supply of readily available energy in the feedstock. Microbial growth slows and the pile eventually cools to just above ambient temperatures. Supplemental air is no longer necessary, so the compost is allowed to sit undisturbed.

Meanwhile, the microbes slowly consume any odiferous or phytotoxic (poisonous to plants) compounds generated as decomposition by-products and convert them to carbon dioxide and water. This process, called “curing,” generally takes from six weeks to six months. Once compost is properly cured, its organic portion is functionally equivalent to humus and it performs as a safe and useful soil amendment. Curing provides additional time for pathogen destruction....

For an in-vessel or static pile system, compost must reach or exceed 131°F for a continuous three-day period. Turned windrow systems must be maintained at 131°F or higher for 15 days. During this period, windrows must be turned at least five times. Under these conditions, viable pathogens fall below detectable concentrations.... By mixing the composting material, turned windrow systems insure that all portions of the pile are exposed to interior conditions sufficient to kill pathogens. In-vessel and static pile systems are often insulated to insure that exterior temperatures are sufficiently elevated.

While most pathogens are significantly reduced during the composting process, a few may survive. One of these, the fungus Aspergillus fumigatus, is a primary respiratory concern only for certain sensitive individuals exposed during the composting process (rather than an enteric pathogen that may contaminate food crops). Aspergillus fumigatus can infect the lungs of humans when its spores are inhaled. The resulting infection, called “aspergillosis,” is primarily a problem for immuno-compromised individuals, particularly people with low white blood cell counts. Aspergillus fumigatus is not in any way unique to compost. It is very common in the environment, occurring in soils, water, and decaying plant tissues. Matter high in cellulose, such as hay straw, is particularly prone to containing this fungus....

There is a wealth of additional information in this free publication and I highly recommend downloading it and reading the entire thing.

CIWMB Publications Catalog
Quick Links...
New Publications
Copyright Info
Publication Resources
Composting Reduces Growers' Concerns about Pathogens
Date Published/Last Revised: October 2000Publication Type: Fact sheetDescription: 4 page(s). Describes some common pathogens found in organic soil amendments, their sources, and how proper composting techniques can eliminate or reduce harmful pathogens. Includes a bibliography and a list of related publications.CIWMB Publication Number: 442-00-014 Cost: $0Downloadable Version (Word 97, 49 KB)
Order a hard copy of this publication.

http://www.ciwmb.ca.gov/Publications/default.asp?pubid=858

COMPOSTING WITH WORMS:
(From the article, "Vermicomposting: Indoor Composting with Earthworms" http://www.franklincountywastedistrict.org/vermicomposting.html )

Composting is usually done outdoors, but the process can easily be adapted for indoor use. So you can compost even if you don't have a yard, or if you don't like going out to a compost bin in the snow, or if you want to produce the highest quality compost there is: vermicompost!

What is vermicomposting?
Vermicomposting is simply composting with earthworms. Earthworms speed up the composting process, aerate the organic material in the bin, and enhance the finished compost with nutrients and enzymes from their digestive tracts. The best kind of earthworms to use are red worms, also known as "red wigglers" and "manure worms". These worms thrive in decomposing organic matter such as leaf piles, compost heaps and old manure piles. They are smaller than nightcrawlers and are reddish brown in color. Red worms are native to Europe but have become naturalized throughout the U.S. Red worms are a good indicator of fertile soil because their presence indicates high organic matter content and a lack of toxic substances in soil.

Red worms make composting indoors feasible because they are very efficient processors of organic waste; they eat and expel their own weight every day. Even a small bin of red worms will yield pounds of rich compost, also known as worm castings. Finished compost can be harvested in as little as two to three months. Redworms are extremely prolific. It takes about three weeks for fertilized eggs to develop in a cocoon from which two or more young worms can hatch. In three months the worms become sexually mature and will start breeding. Within a year you'll be able to give worms away to get a friend started!

Other sources of information on vermicomposting:

(1) http://journeytoforever.org/compost_worm.html
(2) http://www.treehugger.com/files/2007/08/green-basics-vermicompost.php
(3) The following site is still under construction, but looks as if it will be ready soon: http://crazyworms.com/
=================================

A an excellent source source for composting resources:

http://projectcompost.ucdavis.edu/resources.html

Solar Hot Water Basics

By John Patterson,

in Homepower Magazine:

While most people are captivated by the high-tech nature of solar-electric (photovoltaic; PV) systems, in most cases, a solar hot water system will harvest more energy at a substantially lower cost. In fact, compared to PVs, solar hot water (SHW) collectors are more than three times as efficient at producing energy from the sun.
Investing in an SHW system is a smart solar solution for most homeowners. This proven and reliable technology offers long-term performance with low maintenance. And with federal, state, and utility incentives available, these systems offer a quick payback—in some cases, only four to eight years.
A thoughtfully designed SHW system could provide all, or at least a significant amount, of your household hot water needs for some portion of the year. The California Energy Commission estimates that installing an SHW system in a typical household using electric water heating can shave 60 to 70 percent off water heating costs. To get the most for your money, you´ll want a properly sized system that offers the best performance in your climate.

Solar Hot Water System Types
Five main types of solar water heating systems are sold today. These five are a distillation of dozens of types sold over the past 25 years. They are:
• Batch• Thermosyphon• Open-loop direct• Pressurized glycol• Closed-loop drainback
The proven winners are simple, reliable, and long lasting. Some systems are "open loop" (the domestic water itself is directly heated) and some are "closed loop" (a heat-transfer fluid is heated by the collector and the heat is passed on to the domestic hot water by means of a heat exchanger). Some systems are "active," using moving parts such as pumps and valves, and others are "passive," using no mechanical or moving parts.
There are many considerations in choosing the best system for a home, but the client and the situation will dictate the right system.
For instance, for a one- to two-person household in a temperate climate where hard freezes rarely occur, you might go with a batch heater, especially if the hot water will be used more at the end of the day rather than first thing in the morning. In a household with three or more people, where aesthetics and weight are not an issue, the thermosyphon system might fit the bill, especially if there´s no room for an additional tank near the existing water heater.
The drainback system, a personal favorite here in the Northwest, requires continuous drop between the solar collector and the solar storage tank. If continuous fall is not possible, there´s always the pressurized glycol system where piping can go up, down, over, and around without concern. Usually more than one option can work for any situation.
The number of people in the household will dictate how large the system will need to be, and which systems are even possible. Rebate and incentive programs may only qualify certain systems in a given area. Some systems are relatively easy to install for do-it-yourselfers, while others most laypeople shouldn´t attempt. See the comparative chart showing features of the different system types. Make your choice, and enjoy using solar energy to heat your water!
Continued at.....

http://www.homepower.com/basics/hotwater/

Regenerative Agriculture

Widening Circles of Influence

Thinking beyond the traditional scope of organic and sustainable

Excerpts from the following article:http://www.newfarm.org/features/0802/regenerative.shtml

The Widening Circle of Regenerative Agriculture

You and Your Farm–By farming organically, you are regenerating the soil and returning it to it's natural, healthy state. By farming without chemicals, you are also regenerating your health and your family's health.
The Local Environment–The wildlands, wetlands and the environment surrounding your farm are regenerated by your organic practices. Dangerous chemicals no longer wash out of your fields and beneficial birds and wildlife return to help you keep down insect pests.
The Community–the local community and the world beyond are also regenerated by your farm as you recycle natural waste products into your fields, reducing local pollution points. As people eat your organic food, they are being regenerated and made healthier. Your farm is helping to clean up the planet!

The New Farm® is bringing back home delivery
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The New Farm® newsletter gives you quick access to the latest news and features, with direct links to our newest articles. Over 12,000 people are already signed up - Why not be the next one on your block to get it tossed on your electronic doorstep?

Ending World Hunger

Heifer International

What if We Ended World Hunger?For any of us who still wonder if ending world hunger is possible, Heifer’s compelling new multimedia campaign will convince us once and for all that there really is a solution – and that we can be part of it. Take a look at the initiative’s inspiring video, which launched in major cities nationwide. Watch it Now.

Homemade Batteries

This web page explains how a homemade battery works. http://www.physlink.com/Education/AskExperts/ae314.cfm?CFID=995968&CFTOKEN=22339656

"When a rod made of a transition metal, such as copper, is dipped into a solution of its own ions, such as copper sulfate, an equilibrium is set up between the metal in its solid state and the metal as aqueous ions. (A certain proportion of the metal atoms exist in the rod as solid atoms and a certain proportion exist in the solution as aqueous copper 2+ ions). When some of the metal on the rod dissolves to become aqueous ions, electrons are given up by the atom (A copper 2+ ion has loses 2 electrons) and build up on the rod giving a negative electrical charge. This is called a half cell. The size of the negative charge depends on how good a reducing agent the metal is. (Reducing agents donate electrons in reactions). So if we take two half cells made of two different metals and join them together, as one will have a greater negative potential than the other, a potential difference is set up between the two metal rods. As a potential difference cause electrons to flow (from the rod with a greater negative charge to the rod with a smaller negative charge), a cell will have been created. When a copper half cell and a zinc half cell are joined together, they can generate enough current to light a bulb and it is the basis of a cell called the Daniell Cell. "

Here is another web page that shows how to make a simple battery that is strong enough to generate 1 Volt or 100 mA, which can power a light or a small motor-- http://www.exo.net/~jyu/activities/Al-air.pdf

New Organization about Sustainable Energy

When I was logging onto my Yahoo mail account, an interesting Pop-Up (one of the few) came up that was for FUSE (Faiths United for Sustainable Energy). It sounds really good. Here's the site: http://www.fusenow.org/index.html

Making Paper at Home

Obviously, it's hard to do much in the modern world without a ready supply of paper. However, if our goal is "zero waste," then we have to learn to reuse and recycle paper. I found quite a lot of information on home-made paper, by doing a Google search. I found it fascinating that paper can easily be made with simple household materials, like corn starch (or white glue), paper scraps (or plant fibers, such as flower petals and onions), and a wood and wire mesh screen. Although an electric blender saves time in the preparation process, there is no reason why scissors and "elbow grease" wouldn't work just as well. Here are three of the most helpful resources that I found:
http://www.tutorials.com/06/0697/0697.asp
http://www.pioneerthinking.com/makingpaper.html
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/ah_moneysaving_recycle/article/0,,HGTV_3131_2981623,00.html
Paper drying on screen

Finished paper products

- - -

(Photo credits: Home and Garden TV--see third link above)

How To Convert Excess Body Energy to Electricity

As I was doing a Google search for ideas on small-scale, household electricity generators, I came across a fascinating article, which I would like to share, in the hopes that someone will know how to create one of these energy-harnessing garments. The article is called "How to Convert Excess Body Energy to Electricity" and is found at http://news.softpedia.com/news/How-to-Convert-Excess-Body-Energy-to-Electricity-72381.shtml.
Another thought I had was that there ought to be a way of harnessing the simple power of walking. Why couldn't walking around your house generate electricity? I am sure there is a way, if we ask enough people. Suggestions, anyone???

Growing Vegetables Indoors

To be self-sustaining and self-sufficient in an urban environment, one of the first things that must be established is an indoor vegetable garden. I found a wealth of information on-line and have accumulated some of the most useful suggestions here, along with the web addresses, where you can read the complete articles.

Photo credit: from moonbites.info/Growing, page4_blog_entry2_1

The following is information from a very helpful site called The Southern Great Lakes Gardener: http://gardengal.net/. (© Copyright 2001-2004, Marilyn K. Burns)
The article itself is on page 44: http://www.gardengal.net/page44.html and is titled "Indoor Vegetable Gardening":


"--Most leaf crops such as lettuce, endive, swiss chard and the like require cooler indoor temperatures. If you have a bright room which is more or less unused, it might make a good place to grow some of these plants. Likewise, an enclosed, sunny porch where temperatures will not dip down to freezing would be a good place to grow leaf crops and root crops as well. These plants will tolerate daytime temperatures in the low to mid 60's and can take cool nighttime temperatures down into the upper thirties.

"--Vegetables such as tomatoes, sweet and hot peppers, cucumbers and beans do require warmer daytime and nighttime temperatures in order to flower and set fruit. Ideally, daytime temps should be in the upper 70's and nighttime temperatures should not drop lower than 60. A south facing indoor room with supplemental heating and one that warms up considerably in the winter from solar heating would be a good place to grow these crops. . . .

"--Soil requirements are different than those we are used to encountering when gardening outdoors. Whatever you do, do not choose garden soil, no matter how rich it might be, for indoor vegetable gardening! Lightweight soil mixes are the best, garden soil can harbor diseases and insects that are more difficult to control in a confined indoor space, and even the best-quality garden soil can compact when used indoors in containers. A good mix for indoor vegetables would be 1 part potting soil, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part peat, and 1 part perlite.

"--Vegetables will need to be watered daily or every other day due to the confined space in which they are growing and the lack of indoor humidity during the heating season. Because frequent watering can deplete nutrients, a supplemental feeding every two weeks will be necessary. Use a balanced organic fertilizer for best results. . . .

"--Pollination is something that will have to be done manually. An artist's brush helps to distribute pollen from one flower to the next, and is an indispensable tool to have on hand. . . .

"Here are a few vegetables to consider for indoor growing:

Cherry tomatoes, determinate vines
'Gypsy' peppers
Hungarian sweet peppers
Various hot peppers
Short-vined cucumbers
Short-vined squash
Leaf Lettuce of all types
Bush beans
Endive
Small-rooted carrots
Small-rooted beets
Radishes
Miniature cabbage
Bunching onions
Swiss Chard
Spinach
Eggplant

"Another thing to keep in mind is that most vegetables grown indoors will not have the size or yield of those same varieties grown outdoors."
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Another good source of indoor gardening information is found on the site for the Virginia Tech Cooperative Extension: http://www.ext.vt.edu/.
There is an article called "Indoor Container Gardening," by Diane Relf, Retired Extension Specialist, Horticulture, Virginia Tech
Publication Number 426-336, Revised 2004
http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/envirohort/426-336/426-336.html

"Indoor Container Gardening:

"If you want fresh, homegrown vegetables over the winter, or if you don't have an outdoor space in which you can place containers, it is worth trying some indoor container gardening. Of course you cannot have a full garden in the house, but a bright, sunny south-facing window can be the site for growing fresh food all year. Some small-fruited tomatoes and peppers, several types of lettuce, radishes, and many herbs are among the plants you can include in an indoor garden. . . . However, note that plants will dry out less quickly indoors and will also grow more slowly, needing less fertilizer. . . .

"A sunny, south-facing window, is a must for indoor vegetable growing. Fruiting vegetables, such as tomatoes and peppers, will also need supplemental light, such as a combination warm-white/cool-white fluorescent fixture, during winter months. Insufficient light will result in tall, spindly plants and failure to flower and set fruit. . . .

"The small-fruited varieties of tomato, such as Tiny Tim, Small Fry, and the Roma (a paste tomato), may be raised quite satisfactorily in the home. They will challenge your gardening ability and supply fruits that can be eaten whole, cooked, or served with salad. Tiny Tim grows to a height of about 12 to 15 inches. Small Fry, which is about 3 feet tall, and Roma will need more space and should be located on an enclosed porch or in a sunroom. It may be worth experimenting with varieties developed for hanging baskets. Some of the small-fruited peppers may be grown as indoor plants. Like tomatoes, they require warm bright conditions to grow well indoors. Fruit will be ready to harvest from peppers and tomatoes about ten weeks after
planting. . . .

"For a quick-growing crop, try radishes. These must be grown very rapidly if they are to be crisp and succulent. Scatter radish seeds on moist soil in a 6- or 8-inch pot. Cover with 1/4 inch of soil, and place a piece of glass or plastic wrap over the pot to conserve moisture until the seeds germinate. Carrots are slower, but can be grown in the same way; use the small-rooted varieties, such as Little Finger, for best results indoors. Experiment with various types of lettuce. Leaf lettuce and the miniature Tom Thumb butterhead are some to try. Space them according to package directions. Keep lettuce moist and in a very sunny spot.

"If light is limited, an old standby for fresh taste and high food value is sprouted seeds. Almost any seeds can be sprouted: corn, barley, alfalfa, lentil, soybean, rye, pea, radish, mung bean, sunflower, etc. Use only special seeds for sprouting available from health food or grocery stores to avoid the possibility of getting seeds treated with poison, such as antifungal agents. Use any wide-mouthed container, such as a Mason or mayo jar. Soak seeds overnight, drain, and place in the container. Cover with a double cheesecloth layer held with rubber bands or a sprouting lid. Set the container in a consistently warm spot, and rinse and drain seeds two or three times daily. In three to five days, sprouts will be 1 to 3 inches long and ready for harvesting.
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Here's an article that is well worth reading: "Start a self-sufficiency garden even in a cramped apartment," by Nancy Wolcott http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles/wolcott61.html
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For an excellent explanation on how to grow all sorts of sprouts, go to this site: http://www.thefarm.org/charities/i4at/lib2/sprouts.htm